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In Florence this is called arista, but it's very similar to the porchetta of Umbria and it’s a lot like the roast pork from food trucks that has become so popular here. If you live in California (or Toscana), you can find wild fennel growing all over the hills, even in urban parks. Forage carefully (as in: choose from an area that dogs can’t reach and don't mistake it for hemlock). Serve with ribollita.
from Tuscany , published by Phaidon
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1 boneless pork loin roast (about 2-1/2 pounds, see note)
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
3 ounces pancetta or lardo, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 sprig wild fennel (if available), minced
sea salt or kosher salt
olive oil
freshly ground pepper
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With the tip of a paring knife, make small slits about 1/2-inch deep all over the pork in the fat and in the flesh on the top, bottom and ends. In a mortar and pestle, or with the bottom of a pot, pound the fennel seeds coarsely.
In a small bowl, mix together the pancetta, garlic, fennel seeds and sprig (if using), and 2 teaspoons of salt. With your fingers, push this mixture into the slits in the meat, using it all. Rub the entire roast with olive oil, then sprinkle well with salt and pepper. Let the roast sit at room temperature for up to an hour, or tightly seal it and refrigerate for up to 1 day (if made ahead, bring meat to room temperature before roasting). Preheat an oven to 350°.
In a cast iron skillet, sauté pan or small roasting pan, heat enough oil to coat the bottom of the pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add the roast and cook, turning as needed with tongs to brown all sides. Transfer the pan with the meat fat side down to the oven and roast for 20 minutes. Turn the meat fat side up and continue roasting until golden brown and the meat juices run clear, 35 to 45 minutes more or until a meat thermometer reads 150-155°. Let the meat rest on a board for 10 minutes, then slice to serve.
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