creamed summer corn

This side dish articulates everything Thomas Keller espouses in the Ad Hoc at Home cookbook: it's made with seasonal ingredients, simply combined, plus a touch of unexpected flavor that distinguishes it from other versions. In this case, fresh lime is what sets it apart. As with all Keller recipes, it pays to follow his directions closely: start with the amount of lime the recipe recommends, then taste and adjust as you find fit. Aim for a perfect balance of sweet, salty, sour and creamy.

serves 4 to 6

prep time: 15 minutes

cook time: 20 minutes

6 ears white or yellow corn, shucked

1 large lime
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
kosher salt
3/4 to 1 cup heavy cream
pinch cayenne
1-1/2 tablespoons snipped fresh chives

With a chef’s knife, cut down each ear of corn to remove kernels. Place kernels in a bowl. (To remove excess silk, see note below.) Holding one cob over the bowl at a time, use the back of a knife or a spoon to scrape any remaining corn and "milk" (corn juices) from the cob into the bowl. Repeat with remaining cobs.

Grate the zest from the lime onto a small plate and set aside. Cut lime in half. Juice lime into a ramekin and have a tablespoon measure handy.

Melt the butter in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add corn kernels and 1 tablespoon of lime juice. Season to taste with salt. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook the corn, stirring occasionally, until the liquid evaporates and the corn starts to sizzle, about 12 minutes. Stir in 3/4 cup of the cream, cayenne and lime zest and bring to a boil. Adjust heat to medium and simmer until cream is thickened and almost absorbed, 6 to 8 minutes. Taste and add more lime juice, salt, or cayenne as desired and stir in remaining cream for a creamier texture, if desired. Remove from heat, stir in chives and serve.

adapted from Ad Hoc At Home by Thomas Keller

note: to remove any last bits of silk from the corn kernels in the bowl, set another bowl of water next to it. Swish your hands through the corn kernels in a circular motion to let your fingers pick up most of the remaining silk strands. Rinse your hands in the water bowl as you work to remove the silks. Repeat this a couple of times.